The Christmas drive along the N3 highway down to Durban is a yearly pilgrimage for many Joburgers.  Toll gates are backed up for kilometers and the average speed barely gets above 60kmph.  Unfortunately, in spite of this large crowd of commuters, few travelers take the time to enjoy the beauty through which the N3 runs, particularly in the central portion.  The N3 highway itself is just a hustle to Durban and there really isn’t an opportunity to enjoy the surrounds, lest you upset the family.  The alternative road, the R103, is where this “other” garden route truly resides.  

First; some did-you-know.  In South Africa, all the alternative routes to the national roads are denominated with the symbols ‘R1’, followed by the same number as in the name of the latter.  For example the alternative route to the N1 is the R101 and that of the N3 is the R103.  These alternative routes normally predate the development of the national road system which started construction in the 1970s.  Therefore, they are less commercial and normally follow the lie-of-the-land rather than the direct routes that the national roads were blasted through.  Literally!  This brings me to my point.  The R103 is the original route between Joburg and Durban and it is follows a more charming path, connecting many of the old established towns between these two major cities.  It’s a route that was never designed to be traveled in a single trip.  Unlike the N3 that cuts the most direct path down to Durban, the R103 meanders from town to town as a horseback traveler would have done back in the early 1900s.  And to enjoy the Midlands Meander that’s exactly how it should be done.  Our journey starts in Mooi River and ends in Pietermaritzburg, mostly via the R103.  

Mooi River, as a town, has lost some of its former glory.  Much of its infrastructure, especially in the town center, requires some urgent love and care.  Nonetheless, the rolling misty green hills in the surrounds are still mooi (beautiful).  One of the mooi features in these hills is an 80m high and 50m wide waterfall on the Mooi River about 25km northeast of the town.  There is a cute little bistro close to the intersection of R103 and N3; a worthy departure point for the rest of the trip.

Heading southeast are the little villages of Rosetta and Nottingham Road.  The former also lying along the Mooi River and the latter adjacent to Nottingham Fort, after which it is named.  The recently completed Spring Grove Dam in Rosetta might increase the town’s entertainment appeal.  But, that is yet to be seen.  So for now Nottingham Road has more of that “entertainment appeal.”  Now when visiting Nottingham Road, be careful of the robbers that lie along the paths.  They steal from the rich and give to the poor…  Sorry, that was a lame joke.  Bad jokes aside!  Nottingham Road, has one of the most beautiful 9-hole golf courses in the world called Gowrie Farm which is difficult to resist even in the rain and mist.  There is also a market with a restaurant, trinket shops and a little outdoor sports center.  The Nottingham Fort is worth a short visit and respectfully it acknowledges both the original San and later British inhabitants.  Finally, save some space for a pint of the local brew at the Nottingham Road Brewing company before heading off.      

Parallel to the Midlands Meander are the magnificent Drakensberg mountains (Dragon mountains).  While driving down the Meander the ragged cliffs, after which the Drakensberg is named, lie as an enticing guard of the Western horizon.  Enticing; because of its beautiful mystery and guarded; because in most areas the sheer cliffs are impossible to scale by a novice hiker.  The snow capped peaks create a glorious vista during winter.  

All along the meander are numerous access routes to the Central Drakensberg.  The Kwazulu Natal Province is blessed with most spectacular section of the Bergs.  So no matter which westerly route you choose to branch off from the meander, you are bound to get value for your effort.  Notable points of interest are Loteni, Highmoor, Kamberg and Giants castle; all within the greater uKhahlamba nature reserve.  The Bergs abound with hiking routes ranging from amateur to professional grade trails.  You could spend months in the Bergs and still not get to experience all of its splendor.  Because, besides the dragon toothed peaks, there is wonderful plant and bird life that reside within cliffs and very notably; many galleries of San rock art.  Directly west of Mooiriver is mount Mafadi, which is the second highest peak in the Bergs and the highest in South Africa at 3450m above sea level.  The highest peak in the Bergs, Thabana Ntlenyana, is in the Kingdom of Lesotho and tops Mafadi by 32m.  Mafadi is accessible to hikers via a 4 day route from the Injisuthi base camp, approximately 65km from Estcourt.  Yes I know, Estcourt is not part of my garden route, but was that not a valuable piece of information?

Heading Southeast from Nottingham road, you will find the true nature of the Midlands Meander.  The road twists more dramatically through the vast rolling misty green hills of the Meander.  Restraint will be required to not stop and simply marvel at the tranquil surroundings.  The juxtaposition of the dramatically rugged Bergs with the Midlands meander always amazes me.  It’s almost as if these gentle rolling hills were created as a precursor to the spectacular rugged peaks of the Drakensberg mountains.  

John Van der Ruit wrote a series of novels about the school career of John Milton in a boarding school somewhere in the KZN Midlands.  Although written in 2005, the book is already somewhat of a South African classic.  The books do not explicitly give the name of the school but it is agreed that Michaelhouse is the setting.  Besides being one of the premier boys schools in South Africa and the setting of a classic series of novels, the architecture within this 120 year old school is worth a stop over to spy on.  The entrance to the School is just off the R103 and a friendly word with the guard might just get you in.  This is not ordinarily a tourist spot but it is part of Kwazulu Natal culture and if you’re a fan of Spud then it is a must-do.   

The R103 between Nottingham Road and Howick is littered with little markets, restaurants, wedding venues and stalls.  Depending on your taste, at least one of them will lure you off your journey.  However, one site in particular cannot be overlooked regardless of the rush.  On the 5th of August 1962, Nelson Mandela was captured at a roadblock on the R103 near Howick, significantly marking the beginning of the legends 27 year long imprisonment.  An impressive sculpture and visitors centre were erected on the site 50 years after the capture to commemorate the event.  The sculpture consist of a series of poles, which on first approach looks like a random field of sticks, but after lining up perfectly with the sculpture Madiba’s face is conjured from within the poles.  For many South Africans, it is a personal experience to visit the site but even for others, the timeless sculpture makes for a credible stop.  

Continuing south, past the tiny village of Lions River, lies the picturesque town of Howick, straddling the mighty Umgeni River.  The river is the source of 2 of Howick’s most notable attractions; the Midmar Dam and Howick falls.  The bustle of Howick is centered around the falls, which is easily accessible from the main road.  The annual Midmar mile swim is held at the dam attracting a large crowd from all over the country to this normally quiet little town.  Many towns in Northern and central KZN have a rich war history.
Concentration camps are synonymous with the Second World War but a little know fact is that the first of these were established by the British during the second Anglo-Boer war.  Howick was the site of an early concentration camp that confined many Boer men, women and even children.  Howick is also the possible location of the first manned flight in history.  Yes, even before that of the famous Wright brothers.  A memorial to this achievements is located near Currys Post, a few kilometers outside Howick.  

Currys Post is a tiny a settlement located in the heart of the Midlands pine forests.  It is accessible from a number of points, either from the N3, Howick or Nottingham Road.  The section from Howick is tarred but the rest are characterized by twisty dirt.  The gravel roads, while being longer and rougher, are best.  It is often off the beaten track where these jewels lie.  The town may just pass you by but keeping a watchful eye, and a hidden gem may just reveal itself.  There is a mind blowing coffee shop called Terbodore in the settlement which in itself is worth the drive there.  The locals have obviously kept this spot quite secret because in spite of the town’s remoteness you will find that a reservation is crucial.                          
The R103 is poorly marked within Howick so once found the final stretch toward Pietermaritzburg via Hilton can begin.  It is a beautiful windy descent to the former provincial capital.  Maritzburg often lives in the shadow of Durban but I find it to be a worthy escape from both the heat and intensity of ‘big brother’.  It’s location on the edge of the Meander and the valley of a thousand hills creates a quaint vibe that is often not associated with large metros.  A fitting city to end this garden route and perform the metamorphosis from gentle meandering roads to roaring highways!